Ferry to Spain

It’s a lovely walk to the port (if a little hurried: always that frisson of anxiety that one is definitely walking in the right direction!) after a lovely breakfast on the terrasse. 

Tangier is quite majestic - imposing buildings along the waterfront boulevarde with ramparts rising up steeply behind.

At the port it was a myriad of steps to work out where to go, the port under renovation, just like about everything else in Morocco (and probably behind schedule too ...). Once we had filled out the requisite documentation, we followed the hordes. We were told the boat was full and we were lucky we had booked - months ago (!).

A myriad of races progressed through Passport Control - ours was very quick given we look completely unlike anyone else! (white, tall, not dressed in a jellaba or head-scarf!). I feel like a refugee - and wonder how many of these people are: certainly the officers look at them very carefully and it all takes time; on the other hand we are waved through, almost like royalty: it’s a bit embarrassing.

We leave half an hour late. So it’s goodbye Morocco via the Strait of Gibraltar; hello Spain. 

We arrive at Estacion de Tarifa and take shuttle bus to Algeciras (note to Bill: pronounced Aljer-sì-rass emphasis on ‘si’) which -  finally ! - arrives. Picturesque bus ride. We can see Gibraltar as we arrive into Algeciras. 

OMG I can’t believe it: Spain! We walk UP to Plaza Alta (and the Iglesia Ntra. Sra. de la Palma) - a pretty square! And then we find a great spot for lunch! An excellent glass of red rioja; 2 beers for MF. 

Does someone look happy?!And tostadas (guacamole and fresh anchovy for me). OMG the best thing I have eaten for weeks (although this morning’s omelette was THE BEST!!). I am in Heaven. Can not believe it! I LOVE Spain - the people are so friendly and helpful; it is wonderful not to be hassled! The clothes, the food, the wine. All muy bueno!! 

Ah darn it! The train is not running all the way to Ronda! Argh! This is meant to be one of the great train journeys of the world! Argh. We are going by bus to San Roque; then train - apparently. We’ll see how this ‘pans out’. MF has his map app working and San Roque is only a small distance along. We duly change onto the train at San Roque. 

The scenery is amazing: a stream wiggling its way through a rocky gorge, yellow flowers, orchards, olive groves, lots of tunnels as the train snakes its way around the valley to Ronda. There are a good many dirt walking tracks following the river too which look great; we see some bike riders. 

The post-lunch sleepiness is banished and the dirty train windows make photo-snapping almost impossible but still it is a picturesque trip that I simply don’t want to end!! 

In Ronda, as we walk from the station to our BnB, we pass a tapas place as we pass over the Puente Nuevo (the new bridge); make a mental note to return. 

We get lost looking for the BnB and have to make a call (especially worrying is impending rain and I don’t want to be caught out in it!). We are hit by a thunderstorm just as we arrive at the BnB (finally!) but it clears as we sit down in the Tabanco Los Arcos - the bar we had seen earlier - where we ‘down’ two red wines (from the region) with tapas - the liver enzymes are definitely getting a pick-me-up today!; the Tempranillo/Syrah is the better. We have a great spot looking out the window straight down the gorge! Choices: Provolone de casa; jamón ibérico de bellota, sardina ahumada, queso de rulo de cabra y mermelada de frambuesa. I have to laugh though: just when I thought we’d left Morocco behind, our coffee arrives and is called Dromaderio. But of course, the Islamic/Moorish influence is very strong here! 

The weather clears and although no sunset, we enjoy the last vestiges of daylight over the gorge; we have gained an hour since crossing the Mediterranean so are relishing the extra daylight. Spend an hour walking around enjoying the town.